Sayulita Swell

Amazing, awesome, huge, beautiful, loud, crushing, exhilarating, energetic, inspiring, scary, challenging. These are only some of the words to describe the swell that blessed Sayulita and much of the pacific coast last week. (That would have been the first week of June.)  Sayulita has not seen a swell like this for a very long time. The word on the street was that surfers from all over were flying in to get a piece of it. I wish I could fly around and chase swells, instead of fly around and serve drinks. If it was always like this I would never have learned to surf, just too big and scary. Ozzy and I went out the first day and had little success. You had to be in the right spot and we were not willing to go up against the pros that were out for that spot. Plus we hadn't surfed for a couple of months so the strength and confidence were a bit weak. Though I did a beautiful pearl, and somehow got turned around just in time to see my nine foot board coming down on top of me being pushed even harder by a very large wave. I managed to get my hands over my head, while still holding on to my paddle, then I went for a nice ride in the washing machine, for what felt like a while. After trying to find air a few times and thinking when is this wave going to pass over me, how big was it and is there another just behind it, I finally broke through and found some air. Whew! It didn't stop me though. I went back out looking for more but just wasn't "feeling it" so we left. For me, surfing is like skiing. Some days you rip and some days you just are not on your game. The conditions play a huge role as well as confidence level and your strength and energy that day. But when you are like these guys, I imagine none of that matters, you rip everyday, every wave and you love it!

The guys who were out were just psyched. This is what they live for and it was so much fun watching them.

This one cracks me up.  I bet he lost his pants!

The beach was full of locals, tourists, exaughsted surfers, wanna be rippers and children with their eyes glued to the surf.

Thank you surf gods!!!

I loved watching it! I could see the waves forming at the point and hear the waves banging and crashing so loud at my house. I literally sat there in awe with a smile.

The ocean calmed a bit and gave us a beautiful sunset

From all the surfers and admirers, muchas gracias